Can You Tell the Difference Between Designer and High Street Cashmere? The Honest Answer

FASHION ADVICE · KNITWEAR · IS IT WORTH IT?

Yes — but not always in the way you'd expect, and not always enough to justify the price gap. That's the honest answer. I've handled a lot of cashmere over the years, from a £49 M&S jumper that surprised me completely to a £650 Loro Piana piece that genuinely felt like wearing a cloud, and the truth is: the difference is real, but it's nuanced. Knowing what you're actually paying for — and when it's worth it — is what separates a smart cashmere purchase from an expensive mistake.

Let me break it down properly.

What Actually Makes Cashmere Different in the First Place?

Cashmere comes from the undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily in Mongolia, China, Iran, and Afghanistan. The finest fibres are the longest and thinnest — measured in microns — and they come from the underbelly of the goat, combed out by hand each spring. The finer the fibre, the softer and more expensive the resulting yarn.

What most people don't realise is that "cashmere" is a broad label that covers an enormous range of quality. A jumper can legally be labelled 100% cashmere whether it uses short, coarse fibres spun cheaply in bulk, or long, ultra-fine fibres from a specialist Mongolian supplier. The fibre grade, ply (how many strands are twisted together), and knitting density all determine the final quality — and the price reflects that.

The Grade Question: What You're Really Paying For

This is where the real difference between a £60 high street cashmere and a £400 designer piece lives:

Fibre length and micron count — longer, finer fibres (under 15.5 microns for the very best) are softer, pill less, and last longer. Budget cashmere often uses shorter fibres that feel soft initially but pill heavily after a few wears. If you've ever had a cheap cashmere jumper that looked terrible by February, this is why.
Ply — most high street cashmere is single or two-ply. Designer pieces are often two or four-ply, meaning the yarn is thicker, more structured, and holds its shape over years rather than months. A four-ply cashmere jumper from a quality brand is an heirloom piece; a single-ply fast-fashion equivalent is essentially a one-season item.
Knitting density — tighter, denser knitting means the jumper holds its structure better and resists pilling more effectively. Hold a piece up to the light; if you can see through it quite easily, the knit is loose and the garment won't last.
Dyeing and finishing — quality cashmere is dyed at low temperatures to preserve fibre integrity. Cheaper processes can damage the fibre and cause fading and pilling far more quickly.

The Pilling Problem: The Real Test of Quality

I once bought a cashmere-blend jumper from a well-known high street retailer — I won't name them, but we've all been there — and it pilled so badly after three wears that it looked like it had been attacked by a cat. I bought a two-ply cashmere roll-neck from a quality brand the following year, wore it constantly for two full winters, and it still looks beautiful. That is the actual difference between grades of cashmere, and it's a difference you feel very quickly.

The rule of thumb: if a cashmere jumper feels extraordinarily soft in the shop, be cautious. Very soft initial handle can indicate shorter fibres that will pill fast. The best cashmere feels smooth and slightly firm — it softens beautifully with wear and washing, rather than degrading.

When High Street Cashmere Is Genuinely Worth It

Here's where I'll be straight with you: the best high street cashmere brands have improved significantly in the last few years, and there are genuinely good options that punch well above their price point. You don't need to spend £500 to own cashmere that looks and feels excellent.

M&S — their Pure Cashmere range is consistently one of the best-value cashmere options in the UK. The two-ply pieces in particular have a quality that is genuinely impressive for the price. I have recommended M&S cashmere to clients who could have afforded to spend three times as much, and they've been delighted.
COS — their cashmere pieces are beautifully cut, slightly more fashion-forward than classic knitwear retailers, and the quality-to-price ratio is excellent. Their oversized cashmere shapes in particular are worth watching each season.
Boden — a reliable mid-market option with good colour choices and solid construction. Their cashmere is honest about what it is — not luxury, but genuinely good quality for the price.
The White Company — their cashmere sits at the premium end of the high street and it shows. The quality is noticeably better than budget options, the colours are beautiful, and the pieces are designed to last multiple seasons.
Fat Face — a more casual take on cashmere knitwear. Their pieces are relaxed, comfortable and represent solid value; perfect if you want cashmere softness for everyday wear without a hefty price tag.
Whistles — their cashmere sits in a nice sweet spot between high street and premium, with well-considered shapes and good fibre quality. Their fitted cashmere crew-neck is a wardrobe staple worth owning.
Hush — slightly under the radar but very worth knowing about. Their cashmere and cashmere-blend knitwear is beautifully soft, comes in lovely tonal shades, and holds up well across seasons.

When Designer Cashmere Is Worth the Splurge

There are occasions when spending significantly more is genuinely justified — and it's not just about the label.

If you'll wear it constantly for years — a truly exceptional cashmere piece from a quality brand is a cost-per-wear calculation that often beats a new high street jumper every year.
If you want the finest possible handle — the difference between top-grade cashmere and standard cashmere is tactile and real. If that matters to you, the luxury price reflects something genuine.
If the piece has a classic, timeless design — a beautifully cut Brora or Eric Bompard cashmere rollneck will look relevant for fifteen years. A trend-led cheap cashmere piece won't survive one.

Brora — a Scottish heritage cashmere brand that is, in my opinion, among the best in the world at its price point. They use Scottish-spun yarn, the quality is outstanding, and the classic designs mean you'll wear these pieces for decades. If I had to recommend one premium UK cashmere brand, it would be Brora without hesitation.

Me&Em — their cashmere sits at the premium end of the contemporary market, with excellent construction and very wearable shapes. Particularly good for modern, elevated cashmere pieces that feel fashion-forward rather than purely classic.

LK Bennett — beautiful cashmere knitwear with a polished, occasion-appropriate feel. Their cardigans and fine-knit pieces are particularly elegant.

Two Independent Cashmere Brands Worth Knowing

Naadam — a genuinely fascinating brand that sources directly from Mongolian herders, cutting out the middlemen to offer exceptional cashmere at a fraction of what you'd expect to pay. Their ethos around sustainable sourcing is real, not marketing, and the quality of their yarn is outstanding. One of the best-kept secrets in cashmere right now.
Begg x Co — a historic Scottish mill producing some of the finest cashmere scarves and accessories in the world. If you want one extraordinary cashmere accessory that will last a lifetime, look here. Their pieces are stocked at Liberty and Selfridges but the brand itself is well worth exploring directly.

How to Test Cashmere Quality Before You Buy

Whether you're in a shop or ordering online, here are the practical checks I always do:

The stretch test — gently stretch a section of the knit. Quality cashmere springs back to its original shape immediately. If it stays stretched, the fibre quality is poor.
The rub test — rub a section of the fabric briskly between your palms for ten seconds. If it starts to pill immediately, short fibres are to blame and the jumper won't last.
The weight test — genuine quality cashmere has substance. If a jumper feels very light and insubstantial, it's likely single-ply with a low knit density.
The look-through test — hold it up to the light. A densely knit, quality piece should be relatively opaque. If light pours through easily, the knit is too loose to be durable.

Find Your Perfect Size Across Every Cashmere Brand — Free

One of the most frustrating things about buying knitwear online is that sizing varies wildly between brands — an M at The White Company fits nothing like an M at COS, and cashmere is expensive enough that getting it wrong and returning it is a real headache.

Tellar.co.uk solves this instantly. It's the UK's leading independent sizing tool, completely free, covering 1,500+ brands. Measure once and it tells you your precise size across every brand you want to shop — no more guessing, no more returns.

Use the Store Size Lookup Tool to find your exact size in M&S, COS, Brora, The White Company, Me&Em and hundreds more.
Always free. No account needed. Works instantly in-browser.

The Tellar Fashion Hub is also packed with free, honest style guides — independently written by stylists with no brand influence. A few worth bookmarking:

The Ultimate Clothing Sizing Guide — everything you need to know about sizing before you shop
The Ultimate Guide to Dresses — styles, shapes, and the best brands covered in full
The Ultimate Guide to Jackets & Blazers — finding the right fit every time
Jeans Trends 2026 — the styles worth investing in right now

The Verdict

Can you tell the difference between designer and high street cashmere? With the best examples of each side by side, yes — you can. The finest cashmere genuinely does feel different, last longer, and look better over time. But the gap between them is not as wide as the price difference suggests, particularly when high street brands like M&S, The White Company, and Brora (at the premium end) are performing so well.

My honest advice: buy the best quality cashmere you can afford, but don't feel you need to spend luxury prices to own something genuinely excellent. Know what to look for, test before you buy, and invest in pieces with a classic shape you'll wear for years. That approach will serve you far better than chasing a label.