Citizens of Humanity Sizing: Does It Run True to Size?

By Ella Blake – Fashion Stylist | Tellar Fashion Hub – Always honest, unbiased & unsponsored

Citizens of Humanity sizing runs broadly true to size, but — and this is a big but — it depends almost entirely on which style you're buying and whether it's stretch or rigid denim. Get that wrong and you'll be returning before the parcel has barely left the depot. I've worn COH on and off for years and I'll be honest: I've got it wrong myself. My first pair of Jolenes arrived, I loved them on the hanger, tried them on and they were genuinely unwearable. I'd sized down assuming the non-stretch cotton would give — it does not. Lesson learned the hard way.

The Short Answer on Sizing

Citizens of Humanity is a Los Angeles-based premium denim brand that has built a devoted following since 2003. The range is wide — from sculpted high-rise straights to relaxed, low-slung baggies — and sizing behaves differently across the collection. Here's the headline:

Stretch denim styles: true to size, though they do loosen slightly after a few wears. If you're between sizes, go down.
Rigid, non-stretch denim (like the Jolene): size up. There is zero give in 100% cotton, and they are cut quite narrow through the thigh.
Relaxed/baggy styles (like the Ayla): true to size if you want the intended loose fit. Size down for something snugger through the waist.
Slim and straight cuts: generally true to size with some reviewers noting they run a touch large at the waist.

Understanding the Rise — It Matters More Than the Size

One of the things that trips people up most with Citizens of Humanity is not the numerical size — it's the rise. They have an absolutely enormous range: low-slung hip-level cuts, vintage low-rises, easy vintage high-rises, and ultra-high waistbands. Each one sits completely differently on the body and affects how you perceive the fit.

Zurie: a contoured waist and tidy top block — brilliant if you struggle with waist gaping on straight legs. This one hugs the waist well.
Annina: ultra-relaxed straight leg with a very high waist — think trouser-inspired. Generous through the hips and thighs.
Emerson: their signature boyfriend jean. Low rise, relaxed — size up if you want it to actually sit off the hips the way it's intended.
Palma: slim straight, vintage high rise — hits just above the ankle. This one is as close to a classic as they make.
Dahlia: relaxed, low-slung vintage fit that tapers gently. One of their more forgiving styles through the seat.

My personal recommendation? Before you buy, look at the rise label first, then the size. A vintage low rise and an easy high rise are essentially different garments — pick based on your body confidence and what you actually want on your waist.

The Fabric Question

Citizens of Humanity use a range of fabrications — some contain elastane, some are comfort stretch cotton blends, and some of their heritage styles are pure rigid cotton. The fabric composition changes everything about how the jeans behave on the body.

Pure cotton/rigid denim: these will feel tight initially and will not stretch out significantly. Size up by one and wear them in.
Comfort stretch blends: these are the most forgiving and typically the most popular. They're true to size but will soften and loosen by around half a size over a few wears.
Premium stretch (used in slimmer cuts): true to size. These hold their shape well compared to cheaper elastane blends.

Always check the fabric breakdown on the product page before ordering. COH are good at listing fabric compositions — it's worth a 30-second read before you commit.

How to Measure for Citizens of Humanity

COH jeans use US numerical sizing (24–34 for waist in their jeans range), which can feel confusing if you're used to UK 8–16 sizing. Here's a quick guide to translating your measurements:

Measure your natural waist (not your hips — this is the number their waist sizing refers to).
A UK size 10 typically corresponds to a COH size 26–27 depending on the style.
A UK size 12 typically corresponds to a 28–29.
A UK size 14 typically corresponds to a 30.
For baggy and relaxed cuts, measure your hips too — these fits are more generous and you're choosing where on your body the waistband sits.

If you're unsure of your exact size in COH, use the Tellar Store Size Lookup tool — it matches your body measurements directly to Citizens of Humanity's sizing chart, which saves a lot of guesswork.

Style Advice: Which Cut Is Right for You?

This is where I actually love COH — they have something for almost every body shape and style preference, which is rare at this price point.

Pear shapes: look at the Zurie or Palma. The contoured waistband minimises gaping and the straight leg balances wider hips beautifully.
Straighter figures: the Annina or the Emerson boyfriend are flattering — they add shape and volume where it's needed.
Petite frames: the Zurie Ankle is cropped just right and doesn't swamp. Avoid the ultra-relaxed styles unless you're prepared to hem.
Curvier figures: the Dahlia is lovely — the slight taper at the ankle is elegant rather than restrictive, and the low-slung waist avoids the dreaded muffin situation.

Where to Shop Similar Styles for Less

Citizens of Humanity sits at the luxury end of the denim market — we're talking £200–£350 a pair. If you love the aesthetic but want options at different price points, here's where I'd look:

Mango — consistently delivers excellent straight-leg and barrel-leg denim that rivals the COH aesthetic at a fraction of the price. Their denim range has improved hugely over the last two years.
Abercrombie & Fitch — genuinely brilliant for high-rise straight and 90s-style loose fits. Their curve love range is particularly well cut. A strong COH alternative.
Massimo Dutti — understated, well-constructed denim with a clean European aesthetic. If you love the COH Palma, the Massimo Dutti straight leg is worth a look.
COS — excellent for minimal, architectural denim shapes. Their relaxed straight and wide-leg styles have real COH energy without the spend.
Whistles — a solid UK option for premium-feel straight leg and barrel-cut denim. Good quality fabrics and thoughtful fits.
Calvin Klein — the original American denim heritage brand. Their 90s straight and high-rise skinny styles are perennial and competitively priced.
Me&Em — a brilliant British brand producing smart, elevated denim that's built for grown-up wardrobes. Their sizing is consistent and the quality punches well above the price.
Reiss — for a smart, polished denim look. Not a huge denim range but the pieces they do are beautifully made and versatile.

Two Independent Brands Worth Knowing

Beyond the big names, here are two smaller brands I think are genuinely worth your attention:

Nudie Jeans — a Swedish brand with serious denim credentials and a strong sustainability ethos. Their organic denim is exceptional quality, the fits are excellent, and they offer a free repairs-for-life service. If you care about where your jeans come from, these are worth every penny.
Boyish Jeans — a LA-based sustainable denim label doing beautiful vintage-inspired silhouettes using recycled and deadstock fabrics. Comparable to COH in aesthetic and quality but with a smaller footprint and a slightly lower price point. One for the shopping list.

Never Guess Your Size Again — Use Tellar

Citizens of Humanity sizing is genuinely tricky if you're shopping online. That's exactly why I built Tellar — the UK's leading free sizing tool that matches your measurements to over 1,500 brands instantly. No size guides, no guesswork, no returns.

Measure once — bust, waist, and hips. That's all you need.
Use the Store Size Lookup tool to get your exact size in Citizens of Humanity and 1,500+ other brands — from COS and Reiss to Everlane and Arket.
Always free — no downloads, no subscription. Works straight in your browser.

Plus, the Tellar Fashion Hub is stacked with free, honest, unsponsored style advice from our in-house stylists. No ads. No affiliate bias. Just good fashion writing.

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