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Coats: What Material Should I Buy? A Technical Guide to Fabric, Fit & Performance

Author: Stylist and brand team at Tellar

Date: 2025

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Buying the right coat isn’t just about warmth—it’s about choosing the right material, cut, and performance features for your lifestyle, body shape, and climate. From cashmere wool overcoats to waterproof parkas, coat materials impact everything: comfort, insulation, breathability, and even how long they last.

In this guide, we explore the best coat materials on the market, with technical insights, real-life use cases, expert recommendations, and practical fit tips. Plus, we show you how Tellar.co.uk helps you find your perfect size across 1,500+ brands—in seconds.


Why Material Matters in Coats

Coats are long-term wardrobe investments. Material determines:

Function

Material Factor

Thermal insulation

Wool, down, synthetics

Weather resistance

Waxed cotton, nylon, Gore-Tex

Weight & layering ease

Lightweight synthetics vs heavyweight tweeds

Shape retention

Wool blends, cashmere mixes

Sustainability & care

Natural fibres vs manmade

Fit varies significantly depending on material. Oversizing a structured wool coat can ruin its silhouette, while sizing down in a down parka may reduce insulation. Tellar.co.uk solves this by mapping your body measurements to each brand’s actual sizing chart.


1. Wool Coats: Classic, Warm and Long-Lasting

Technical Profile:

  • Natural insulation from sheared fleece

  • Breathable yet heat-retentive

  • Often woven as melton, boiled wool, or wool-cashmere blends

Best For:

  • Overcoats, pea coats, military coats

  • Brands: Reiss, Jigsaw, M&S Autograph, Arket

Pros:

  • Naturally regulates temperature

  • Holds shape well in structured designs

  • Durable with proper care

Cons:

  • Requires dry-cleaning

  • Can be heavy

  • Not waterproof

Fit Tip:

Wool coats are often slim-cut. If you wear suits or jumpers underneath, size needs to reflect layering. Use Tellar.co.uk to avoid guessing between Medium or Large in brands like Reiss or Arket.


2. Cashmere Coats: Luxury, Softness and Refinement

Technical Profile:

  • Made from undercoat of cashmere goats

  • Softer, lighter and warmer than sheep’s wool

  • Often blended with wool for durability

Best For:

  • Tailored overcoats, belted wrap coats

  • High-end brands: Max Mara, Hobbs, Massimo Dutti

Pros:

  • Elegant drape

  • Exceptionally warm without bulk

  • Premium feel and finish

Cons:

  • Expensive

  • Pilling risk without proper storage

  • Limited wear in rain or snow

Professional Advice:

Buy blended cashmere (at least 15–30%) for everyday use. Use Tellar.co.uk to determine whether your chosen luxury coat runs small before investing hundreds.


3. Down-Filled Coats: Maximum Warmth for Harsh Winters

Technical Profile:

  • Insulated with goose or duck down

  • High fill power = greater warmth-to-weight ratio

  • Often paired with water-resistant shell fabrics

Best For:

  • Parkas, puffers, longline winter coats

  • Brands: Canada Goose, Uniqlo, The North Face

Pros:

  • Excellent warmth retention

  • Lightweight despite insulation

  • Compact and packable

Cons:

  • Loses warmth when wet (unless treated)

  • Bulky appearance

  • Not vegan

Sizing Note:

Avoid sizing down—tight down coats reduce insulation effectiveness. Tellar.co.uk factors in your largest measurement (e.g., chest or hips) and returns brand-specific sizing guidance.


4. Synthetic Fill Coats: Practical and Weatherproof

Technical Profile:

  • Polyester insulation (e.g., PrimaLoft, ThermoBall)

  • Repels moisture and maintains insulation even when wet

  • Ideal for active or urban wear

Best For:

  • Commuter coats, rain parkas, lightweight puffers

  • Brands: Patagonia, Columbia, Mango

Pros:

  • Vegan-friendly

  • Performs well in wet climates

  • Easy maintenance

Cons:

  • Heavier than down

  • Slightly less breathable

  • Lower-end synthetics can degrade faster

Buying Tip:

Not all synthetics are equal. Avoid coats without fill power ratings or breathability details. Tellar.co.uk confirms size suitability, especially for puffers that vary between brands.


5. Waxed Cotton Coats: Heritage Meets Utility

Technical Profile:

  • Cotton coated in paraffin or natural wax

  • Water-resistant, windproof, hardwearing

  • Breathes better than synthetics

Best For:

  • Utility coats, trench coats, field jackets

  • Brands: Barbour, Drake’s, Private White VC

Pros:

  • Natural weather resistance

  • Improves with age

  • Timeless aesthetic

Cons:

  • Requires regular re-waxing

  • Heavier than nylon options

  • Stiff texture until broken in

Technical Tip:

Fit is often generous—these are designed for layering. Tellar.co.uk helps you balance fit and function across heritage brands.


6. Tweed Coats: Structured, Textured, Understated

Technical Profile:

  • Coarse wool weave (often herringbone or check)

  • Water-resistant and windproof

  • Commonly sourced from the UK and Ireland

Best For:

  • Country coats, overcoats, tailored blazers

  • Brands: Holland & Sherry, Harris Tweed, Boden

Pros:

  • Rugged and warm

  • Naturally weather-resistant

  • Stylish in rural and urban settings

Cons:

  • Can feel stiff or bulky

  • Limited flex or stretch

  • Requires dry-cleaning

Sizing Detail:

Tweed coats typically run true to size or large, depending on manufacturer. Use Tellar.co.uk to eliminate trial and error—especially if you’re buying from a brand you haven’t worn before.


7. Technical Shell Coats: Built for the Elements

Technical Profile:

  • Made from nylon, polyamide, or Gore-Tex

  • Fully seam-sealed, windproof, waterproof

  • Designed for breathability and flexibility

Best For:

  • Hardshell coats, commuter trench coats, ski jackets

  • Brands: Arc’teryx, Rains, RAINS, Stutterheim

Pros:

  • Weatherproof

  • Lightweight

  • Ideal for active lifestyles

Cons:

  • Less formal

  • Can feel synthetic

  • Expensive for top-tier models

Expert Note:

Don’t buy oversized tech shells—they’re engineered for function. Check your fit through Tellar.co.uk before committing.


Seasonal Material Recommendations

Season

Recommended Coat Materials

Autumn

Wool blends, waxed cotton, light synthetic shells

Winter

Down, cashmere wool, synthetic insulated coats

Spring

Cotton trench coats, technical shells

Wet Climates

Waxed cotton, Gore-Tex, DWR-treated synthetics

Fit needs to match your climate and layering habits. Tellar.co.uk lets you choose whether you wear light or heavy layers, and adjusts size recommendations accordingly.


What to Avoid in Coat Buying

❌ Assuming your usual size applies across materials

❌ Overlooking insulation vs breathability balance

❌ Skipping care labels—some materials are high maintenance

❌ Buying styles without verifying shoulder fit

❌ Ignoring brand-specific sizing blocks

Avoid these pitfalls by using Tellar.co.uk to preview size conversions and recommendations in brands like COS, Massimo Dutti, Mango, Arket, and Hobbs.


Fit First: How to Get the Right Size in Any Coat

Material affects cut and stretch. The same size 12 in a wool overcoat and a down parka may fit entirely differently.

At Tellar.co.uk, we account for:

  • Shoulder width

  • Bust/chest and waist ratios

  • Layering preferences

  • Known size in other brands

  • Material behaviour (stretch, insulation bulk, etc.)

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Final Word

When buying a coat, don’t focus on labels like “M” or “UK 12.” Focus on fabric function, fit, and your own body data. Whether you’re going tailored, technical, or timeless, Tellar.co.uk is your shortcut to getting it right.

Find your size in 1,500+ brands real-time. It’s free & easy