How Do I Find My Size in Silk Shirts? Everything You Need to Know Before You Buy

By Ella Blake, Tellar Stylist honest unbiased & unsponsored

Finding your size in silk shirts means measuring your bust and shoulders first, then factoring in whether the shirt is cut Eastern or Western — because silk is one fabric where getting the fit wrong is brutally unforgiving. Unlike a chunky knit or a jersey top that hides a multitude of sins, a silk shirt will show every pull, every gap, every inch of too-tight or too-loose. It's the most beautiful and the most demanding fabric to size correctly — and once you get it right, nothing else comes close.

I have a complicated and deeply loving relationship with silk shirts. I've also made every sizing mistake possible. There was the ivory silk blouse from Massimo Dutti I ordered in my usual size that pulled so tightly across the chest that one enthusiastic gesture at dinner and I was convinced I was going to pop a button across the table. And the oversized silk shirt I sized up in to avoid exactly that problem — which then slid so far off my shoulders it spent the entire evening falling down my arm. The sweet spot is findable. You just need to know what you're looking for.

The Two Measurements That Matter Most for Silk Shirts

Before you buy a single silk shirt, you need two numbers:

Bust measurement: Measure around the fullest part of your chest with a soft tape measure. Keep it parallel to the floor and snug — not tight. This is your primary measurement for any buttoned shirt. Silk has zero stretch, so there is no forgiveness in a too-small bust measurement. If you're between sizes, always go up.

Shoulder width: Measure from the edge of one shoulder across to the other, straight across your upper back. In a silk shirt, the shoulder seam must sit at the edge of your actual shoulder — not dropped down your arm, not pulled towards your neck. This is the detail that separates a shirt that looks expensive from one that looks borrowed.

Length is worth checking too, particularly if you plan to tuck the shirt in (you'll want extra length) or wear it open over a cami (shorter works better). Most brand size guides will list garment length, which is more useful than you might think.

Why Silk Shirts Fit Differently to Other Tops

Silk shirts are cut with a specific amount of ease — that's the extra fabric built in beyond your actual measurements, which allows you to move and breathe. The problem is that different brands interpret ease very differently, and silk amplifies the result either way.

A silk shirt cut with generous ease will drape beautifully and feel relaxed — think of the effortlessly undone French-girl look. A silk shirt cut close to the body with minimal ease will feel sleek and polished, but it has to be precisely your size or it will look strained. Understanding which category your chosen shirt falls into before you buy is half the battle.

As a general rule:

Relaxed or oversized cut silk shirts — size to your shoulder width. These are designed to be roomy in the body, so the shoulder seam is your anchor point. If the shoulders fit, the rest will look intentional.

Classic fitted silk shirts — size to your bust first, then check the shoulder measurement against the size guide. If the shoulders come up narrow, consider sizing up and having the body tailored if needed. A tailor can take in a silk shirt body quite easily; they cannot move a shoulder seam.

Collarless silk blouses or pussy-bow styles — more forgiving than classic shirts. Size to your bust and don't overthink it.

The Bust Gap Problem — and How to Avoid It

If you're fuller-busted, you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. You put on a silk shirt, button it up, and there's a gaping pull between the buttons at chest height. It's one of the most common fit frustrations with silk shirts, and it happens because most brands grade their shirts for a B or C cup. If you're a D cup or above, you'll almost certainly need to size up from your shoulder measurement to accommodate your bust — then either have it taken in at the back or style it open over a slip dress or cami.

Brands worth knowing if you're larger-busted and shopping for silk shirts:

Boden — cuts generously through the bust on many styles and has excellent size notes online.

Phase Eight — consistently accommodating through the chest area, with good fabric quality on their silk-blend shirts.

Anthropologie — runs small, but their silk shirts often have a more relaxed cut that works better for different bust sizes when you size up.

High Street vs. Premium Silk: Does the Sizing Differ?

Yes — and it's worth knowing before you shop. High street silk shirts (or more accurately, silk-feel or satin-finish shirts) tend to be cut with slightly more ease and less precision than premium or designer pieces. This means they're often more forgiving. Premium brands tend to cut more closely to size, so your measurements need to be accurate.

Here's where I'd send you depending on your budget:

Zara — consistently good for silk-look satin shirts. Runs small, so size up one. Their satin shirts in particular have a beautiful drape at a very accessible price point.

Cos — exceptional for oversized, architectural silk shirt styles. True to their size guide, which is detailed and reliable. One of the few high street brands whose size notes I genuinely trust.

Reiss — a brilliant mid-point between high street and premium. Their silk shirts are properly constructed and the sizing is consistent. Check their size guide — it's thorough.

Me&Em — one of the best British brands for elevated silk shirts. Their fabrics are excellent and the cut is particularly good for women in their 30s, 40s and 50s. Size is true to guide.

Ted Baker — lovely feminine silk blouses, tend to run generous. Check individual product notes as it varies by style.

LK Bennett — reliably well-cut, particularly good for work-appropriate silk shirts. True to size and the quality-to-price ratio is strong.

Claudie Pierlot — French brand, cuts slightly more narrowly through the shoulder than British brands. Size up if you're broad-shouldered.

For something a little more independent, I'd recommend looking at Asceno — a London-based brand that makes some of the most beautifully cut silk shirts available, with an honest and detailed size guide. And Pour Les Femmes is brilliant if you want a relaxed silk shirt that's ethically made and genuinely flattering across a wide range of body shapes.

The One Styling Trick That Makes Sizing Less Stressful

Buy one size up and style it open. An open silk shirt worn over a slip dress, a cami and wide-leg trousers, or even a swimsuit on holiday is one of the most versatile and flattering ways to wear the piece — and it completely sidesteps the bust-gap and shoulder-pull issue. You get the luxury of the fabric without the precision of a perfect button-up fit. It's what I do when I fall in love with a silk shirt that doesn't quite fit me correctly, and it works every time.

And always — always — check the care label before you buy. Dry-clean only silk shirts are beautiful but high-maintenance. Hand-wash silk is far more practical for real life. Some brands, like Jigsaw and White Stuff, are particularly good about producing washable silk styles that don't lose their shape.

Find Your Exact Silk Shirt Size with Tellar

Silk shirts are one of those purchases where getting the size wrong is genuinely painful — both for your wallet and your wardrobe. That's exactly why I'd always recommend checking Tellar.co.uk before you buy. Tellar is the UK's leading free sizing tool, matching your measurements to over 1,500 brands instantly — so you know your precise size in Reiss, COS, Me&Em, and hundreds more before a single button is undone in the wrong direction.

All you do is measure once — bust, waist, hip, or use an existing brand size you know works — and the Tellar Store Size Lookup does the rest. No downloads, no subscriptions, completely free. It's genuinely one of the most useful tools I've found for shopping online with confidence.

If you want to go further on sizing, the Ultimate Clothing Sizing Guide breaks down exactly why sizes vary so dramatically between brands — and what you can do about it. And if you're building out a wardrobe around your silk shirts, the Ultimate Guide to Dresses is a brilliant next read.

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