How to Tell If Cashmere Is Actually Good Quality

TELLAR FASHION HUB — STYLE ADVICE

A stylist's honest guide to spotting the difference between luxuriously soft and expensively scratchy — before you hand over your card.

"Good cashmere should feel like a second skin within seconds of touching it. If you have to talk yourself into how soft it is, it isn't."

Here's the short answer: run the fabric across your inner wrist. If it's genuinely high-grade cashmere, you'll know immediately — it's soft, almost weightless, and has a subtle warmth to it that you can feel in seconds. No convincing required. That one test has saved me from so many disappointing purchases over the years, and I wish someone had told me sooner.

I've been navigating the cashmere market for a long time — including a fairly humiliating incident where I bought what I thought was a brilliant find from a discount rail, wore it twice, and watched it pill so badly it looked like it had a skin condition. We live and learn. So let me give you the proper breakdown of what actually separates the good from the grim.

The Touch Test: Your Most Reliable Tool

Before you look at the label, before you check the price, before you do anything else — touch it. Specifically, press the fabric to the inside of your wrist or against your cheek. These are two of the most sensitive patches of skin on your body, and they will not lie to you.

Quality cashmere should feel immediately soft — buttery, almost cool against warm skin
It should have a slight weight and substance to it — not thin or papery
Any prickling or scratching sensation means shorter, lower-grade fibres — walk away
The fabric should feel smooth when you rub lightly, not fuzzy or rough

The reason this matters so much is that good cashmere is made from longer fibres — Grade A cashmere uses fibres of around 14–15.5 microns in diameter and at least 36mm in length. Cheaper cashmere uses shorter fibres that feel rougher and shed and pill much faster. You genuinely can feel the difference with your hands, no specialist knowledge required.

The Pilling Problem: What It Actually Means

Pilling is possibly the most divisive topic in cashmere. Here's the honest truth: even good cashmere pills a little in its first few wears. That's normal — it's loose fibres working their way out. What's not normal is a brand new jumper turning into a fuzz bomb after one outing.

To test before buying, gently rub the fabric between your thumb and forefinger in a circular motion for about ten seconds. If little balls start forming immediately, those are short fibres and this piece will pill relentlessly. If the fabric stays smooth and intact, that's a much better sign.

Stylist tip: A cashmere comb is one of the best £8 you'll ever spend. Even good quality cashmere benefits from a gentle de-pill every few wears — it keeps it looking pristine for years.

Read the Label Properly

The label tells you a lot — if you know what you're looking for.

100% cashmere — this is what you want. Anything that says "cashmere blend" or "with cashmere" means it's mixed with wool, acrylic, or synthetic fibres
Ply — 2-ply cashmere means two threads twisted together, making it stronger, warmer, and longer-lasting than single-ply. For jumpers and cardigans, always opt for 2-ply if you can
Country of origin — Mongolia and Inner Mongolia produce some of the finest raw cashmere in the world. Scotland (particularly the Scottish Borders) has centuries of expertise in spinning and finishing it. Italy (especially Biella) is known for its luxurious finishing. These are the provenance markers worth paying attention to

Hold It Up to the Light

This is a trick I picked up years ago and it's incredibly revealing. Hold the garment up and look through it toward a light source. Quality, properly-woven cashmere will have an even, consistent weave with no obvious thin patches or holes. If it looks uneven, patchy, or you can see your hand clearly through a jumper that's supposed to be substantial — it's low grade.

The drape test is useful too. Lay the piece flat on your arm and let it fall. Good cashmere has a natural, fluid drape. Cheap cashmere either goes stiff and boxy or falls like a wet tissue. Neither is what you're after.

Price: A Useful (But Imperfect) Indicator

I'm always honest about this with clients: genuinely good cashmere costs money. There's no getting around it. A decent quality 2-ply cashmere jumper from a reliable retailer will typically start at around £80–£100 on the high street, and that's the entry point. The reason £25 "cashmere" exists is that it technically contains cashmere — the very shortest, lowest-grade fibres that would otherwise be waste material. It's still cashmere. It's just not good cashmere.

That said, price alone is not a guarantee. I've seen overpriced cashmere that pills after a season, and I've been pleasantly surprised by well-priced pieces that last years. The touch test always overrides the price tag in my book.

Washing and Care: The Final Proof

Here's something people don't always consider: how a cashmere piece is cared for dramatically affects how it ages. Good cashmere, washed gently by hand or on a wool cycle in a mesh bag with a gentle detergent, actually improves with washing — it gets softer and more lustrous over time. Cheap cashmere gets worse: it stretches, pills more, and loses its shape. If you've ever had a cashmere jumper that got better with age, you had a good one.

Where to Buy: Our Stylist Picks by Budget

HIGH STREET & ACCESSIBLE

M&S — Consistently one of the best-performing high street cashmere options. Their Pure Cashmere collection is regularly praised in style press for quality at a genuinely accessible price point. Start here before anywhere else.
The White Company — A brilliant middle ground between high street and premium. Their cashmere is reliably 2-ply, comes in beautiful neutral tones, and wears exceptionally well season after season.
COS — Architectural cuts with a focus on quality materials. Their cashmere has improved significantly in recent years and the minimalist styling means pieces feel timeless.
Massimo Dutti — Often overlooked but genuinely excellent. Their cashmere sits at a mid-point in price but regularly punches above it in quality and finish.
Jigsaw — A reliable British favourite for cashmere basics. Classic shapes, good colour palettes, and honest quality at a mid-range price.
Boden — Cheerful, wearable cashmere that stands up to real life. The pilling resistance is better than many at this price, and their return policy means you can test it properly.
Me&Em — One of the best mid-range options going. Particularly strong on cashmere knits with a flattering, grown-up cut. Their fabric quality is consistently good.
Hobbs — Elegant, wearable cashmere that suits a slightly more polished wardrobe. Good weight to the fabric and reliable sizing.

PREMIUM

Reiss — A step up in feel and finish. Their cashmere blend pieces are beautifully structured and the pure cashmere options are genuinely investment-worthy.
Whistles — A considered edit of cashmere pieces with excellent drape and understated styling. Reliable quality that lasts.

LUXURY & INVESTMENT

Brora — Scottish cashmere that is genuinely extraordinary. Every piece is made in Scotland using traditional techniques and the softness is remarkable. If you're going to spend, spend here.
N.Peal — The purveyor of choice for serious cashmere lovers. Holds a Royal Warrant. Their fine-gauge cashmere is among the finest you'll find anywhere in the world.

INDEPENDENT BRANDS WORTH KNOWING

Turtle Doves — A brilliant British independent making sustainable cashmere accessories from recycled fibres. Ethical, beautiful, and a genuinely lovely story behind the brand.
Ply Cashmere — A small London-based brand sourcing directly from Mongolian herders and producing beautifully considered, responsibly made cashmere. One of those finds you feel good about in every sense.

The Golden Rules: A Quick Recap

Always do the wrist test before buying — instant softness is non-negotiable
Look for 100% cashmere and ideally 2-ply on the label
Check the weave by holding it to the light — it should be even and consistent
A gentle rub test reveals pilling potential before you commit
Scottish, Mongolian, and Italian provenance are your quality markers
Expect to spend at least £80–£100 for the real thing at high street level
Good cashmere gets better with gentle washing — it's a worthy long-term investment

Ultimately, buying good cashmere is one of those wardrobe decisions that pays for itself over years of wear. I have a Brora cardigan that's going on eight years old and looks better now than when I bought it. That's the goal.

Never Guess Your Size Again — Tellar.co.uk

Before you invest in any cashmere piece, make sure you're getting the right size. Cashmere knits especially can vary enormously between brands — what's a size 12 in one label can fit like a 14 in another. That's where Tellar comes in.

Tellar is the UK's leading sizing tool — completely free, no downloads, works straight in your browser. Measure once using your bust, waist, and hip, or enter your size in a brand you already know, and Tellar instantly matches your body to the right size across 1,500+ brands. No more size guides. No more guesswork.

Plus, the Tellar Fashion Hub is a free library of honest, unbiased style advice from real stylists — covering everything from sizing breakdowns to the best buys by brand and budget. Always independent. Always free.

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