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Jackets: What Material Should I Buy? A Technical Guide to Outerwear Fabrics, Fit & Performance

Author: Stylist and brand team at Tellar

Date: 2025

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Choosing the right jacket material isn’t just a matter of style. It directly affects the garment’s performance, comfort, durability, and fit. Whether you’re investing in outerwear for cold weather, transitional seasons, or year-round wear, material selection is one of the most important—and overlooked—factors.

This guide examines the most common jacket fabrics, including leather, suede, wool, cotton, down, synthetics, and blends. We’ll cover technical properties, what to avoid, how different materials impact sizing, and how to find your best-fitting size with Tellar.co.uk—the UK’s leading free sizing tool trusted by thousands.


Why Jacket Material Matters: Technical Considerations

Material impacts several core jacket functions:

Property

Affected By Material

Insulation

Down, wool, synthetics

Water resistance

Nylon, polyester, waxed cotton

Breathability

Cotton, wool, some tech fabrics

Durability

Leather, synthetics, canvas

Maintenance

Suede, wool, down require special care

Flexibility & fit

Cotton, jersey, performance weaves

Failing to consider material leads to jackets that are too hot, too stiff, too fragile, or ill-fitting.


1. Leather Jackets: Durable, Structured, Timeless

Technical Specs:

  • Made from tanned animal hide (cowhide, lambskin, goatskin)

  • Naturally windproof and abrasion-resistant

  • Best worn in cooler, dry conditions

Best For:

  • Structured silhouettes: biker, moto, bomber, racer

  • Brands: AllSaints, Belstaff, Massimo Dutti

What to Avoid:

  • Poor-quality faux leather that cracks

  • Oversized fits (leather doesn’t drape well)

Sizing Insight:

Leather jackets are often cut slim. They don’t stretch much and should hug your shoulders and chest precisely. Use Tellar.co.uk to match your chest measurement to the correct brand size—especially if you layer underneath.


2. Suede Jackets: Soft Texture, Elevated Style

Technical Specs:

  • Sanded inner side of animal hide

  • Breathable but vulnerable to moisture

  • Requires waterproofing spray

Best For:

  • Fashion-forward jackets in neutral colours

  • Lightweight autumn/spring outerwear

  • Brands: Reiss, Theory, John Lewis & Partners

What to Avoid:

  • Wearing in wet conditions

  • Buying unlined suede (can lose shape)

Tip:

Suede runs softer than leather, so look for internal structure or lined shoulders for shape retention. Before buying, check fit recommendations on Tellar.co.uk.


3. Wool Jackets: Natural Warmth, Excellent Insulation

Technical Specs:

  • Made from sheared animal fleece

  • Traps heat while allowing moisture wicking

  • Often blended with polyamide for strength

Best For:

  • Overcoats, pea coats, double-breasted coats

  • Cold-weather outerwear

  • Brands: COS, Arket, M&S Autograph

What to Avoid:

  • Unlined wool if you have sensitive skin

  • Slim-cut wool coats if you wear heavy layers

Buying Tip:

Many wool coats are cut to flatter slim frames. If you're wearing knits underneath, size up—but intelligently. Use Tellar.co.uk to match your largest measurement to the correct sizing scheme.


4. Cotton Jackets: Lightweight, Breathable, Versatile

Technical Specs:

  • Woven from natural plant fibre

  • Highly breathable and skin-friendly

  • Often treated or blended for added performance

Best For:

  • Field jackets, utility jackets, summer layers

  • All-day comfort

  • Brands: Barbour, Uniqlo, & Other Stories

What to Avoid:

  • Untreated cotton in wet weather

  • Jackets without reinforcement (at seams or elbows)

Key Detail:

Cotton jackets don’t stretch. Focus on shoulder width and sleeve length to ensure comfort. Tellar.co.uk’s profile tool matches your precise body shape to each brand’s block.


5. Down Jackets: Ultra-Insulated for Cold Climates

Technical Specs:

  • Filled with goose or duck down feathers

  • Highest warmth-to-weight ratio available

  • Compressible for packing

Best For:

  • Winter coats, mountain parkas

  • Brands: The North Face, Moncler, Canada Goose

What to Avoid:

  • Down fill power below 550 (indicates poor insulation)

  • Tight fits that crush the loft of the down

Fit Tip:

Down jackets are bulky by nature—don’t size down for aesthetic reasons. Use Tellar.co.uk to confirm fit based on your layering habits.


6. Synthetic Jackets: Technical Performance & Weatherproofing

Technical Specs:

  • Made from polyester, nylon, or polyamide

  • Often coated with DWR (Durable Water Repellent)

  • Windproof and water-resistant

Best For:

  • Sportswear, raincoats, commuters

  • Budget-friendly warmth

  • Brands: Nike, Patagonia, Columbia

What to Avoid:

  • Low-cost synthetics that overheat

  • Non-breathable weaves in activewear

Pro Tip:

Synthetic blends may fit looser, especially in fast fashion labels like Zara or H&M. Verify your measurements with Tellar.co.uk before purchasing.


7. Blended Fabrics: Hybrid Performance

Examples:

  • Wool-Polyester: Increases durability and shape retention

  • Cotton-Nylon: Adds weatherproofing and wrinkle resistance

  • Elastane blends: Improve mobility in slim-fit jackets

Best For:

  • Smart-casual jackets, travel-friendly styles

  • Brands: Armani Exchange, Hobbs, Massimo Dutti

What to Avoid:

  • Jackets with no label info on blend percentages

  • High polyester in coats without venting (can overheat)

Sizing Tip:

Blend ratio affects fit and weight. A wool-poly blend may size smaller than pure wool. Always check sizing against real brand data via Tellar.co.uk.


What Jacket Material Works Best by Climate?

Climate

Recommended Materials

Wet & Mild (UK Autumn)

Waxed cotton, wool-poly blends, synthetics

Cold & Dry (Winter)

Down, heavy wool, leather

Warm & Transitional

Cotton, lightweight blends, linen

Urban Travel

Technical blends, windproof synthetics

Seasonal dressing requires smart layering. Tellar.co.uk lets you create a measurement profile once, and get real-time sizing recommendations across brands for each type of jacket.


Smart Jacket Buying: What to Look For

Fit at the shoulders – Shoulder seams should sit flat, not drop

Lining quality – Especially for wool, leather, and suede

Zip and button quality – Avoid cheap plastic fixtures

Armhole height – High armholes = better mobility

Back venting – In structured jackets like blazers and pea coats


Common Mistakes to Avoid

❌ Buying based on tag size alone

❌ Assuming your size is consistent across brands

❌ Ignoring fabric maintenance requirements

❌ Not accounting for layering

❌ Choosing fast fashion for performance outerwear

Avoid sizing errors entirely by using Tellar.co.uk. We analyse your measurements and recommend your perfect size in over 1,500 stores and brands.


Call to Action: Make the Right Material—and Size—Choice

Choosing the right jacket means understanding what you need it to do: insulate, protect, breathe, or layer. Material is half the equation. Fit is the other half.

Tellar.co.uk lets you take your actual measurements—or your known size in a favourite brand—and instantly recommend your correct size in brands like Zara, COS, Reiss, Massimo Dutti, AllSaints, and more.

Create your free sizing profile here

Find your best jacket size across 1,500+ brands


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Final Word

A well-made jacket is an investment. But no matter how good the fabric or cut, if the sizing is off, the whole look falls flat. That’s where Tellar.co.uk comes in: the UK’s leading free sizing tool, helping you get it right the first time—every time.

Find your size in 1,500+ brands real-time. It’s free & easy.