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Should I Size Up in Jeans? The Stylist's Guide to Denim Stretch
Author: Stylist at TellarDate: 2025
Understanding Denim Stretch: The Fabric Facts
Here's what most people don't realise: not all denim stretches equally. Traditional 100% cotton denim has minimal give—perhaps half an inch maximum. However, modern jeans typically contain 1-5% elastane (also called spandex or lycra), which transforms how they behave on your body.
Jeans with 1-2% elastane offer subtle stretch and excellent shape retention. Those with 3-5% elastane provide significant stretch but may lose their shape more quickly throughout the day. I always advise clients to check the fabric composition before purchasing—it's your roadmap to the perfect fit.
The Golden Rules of Jean Sizing
My cardinal rule? If you can easily pull the waistband away from your body by more than an inch when standing, they're too big. Conversely, if you're struggling to button them or creating unsightly bulges, they're too small. The sweet spot is when they feel snug but comfortable, knowing they'll ease slightly with wear.
For stretch denim, I recommend buying your true size or even sizing down slightly. For rigid 100% cotton denim, consider your true size or up to half a size larger, as these will soften and give minimally over time.
How Different Denim Styles Affect Sizing
High-waisted jeans: Often require going up a size as they sit at your natural waist, which is typically smaller than your hip measurement where low-rise jeans sit.
Skinny and slim fits: These are designed to be close-fitting, so trust the size chart and don't be tempted to size up dramatically.
Straight and wide-leg styles: Generally more forgiving through the hip and thigh, so stick to your usual size.
Brand-Specific Sizing Insights
High Street Heroes
Zara runs notoriously small—I always advise going up a size. Their stretch denim is excellent quality for the price point.
H&M has improved their sizing consistency recently. Their &COS premium line offers superior stretch retention.
Mango offers reliable sizing with excellent stretch recovery. Their premium denim line rivals more expensive brands.
COS creates architectural, minimal styles with premium fabrics. True to size with minimal stretch.
ASOS stocks multiple brands, so check individual brand sizing. Their own-brand denim runs large.
Reiss delivers consistent, sophisticated cuts. Expensive but excellent shape retention.
Whistles offers contemporary styling with premium feel. Generally true to size.
Premium Picks
Citizens of Humanity creates cult-favourite fits with superior stretch technology. Their rocket skinny is legendary for good reason.
Paige specialises in ultra-stretch denim that maintains its shape beautifully. Worth the investment.
AG Jeans offers luxurious comfort with innovative stretch fibres. Their sizing runs slightly large.
Luxury Leaders
Frame delivers French-girl effortless style with premium stretch denim. Consistent sizing across styles.
Mother Denim creates playful, vintage-inspired cuts with excellent quality. Their stretch recovery is outstanding.
The Stretch Timeline: What to Expect
New jeans will stretch most within the first few wears. Expect up to an inch in the waist and seat area for stretch denim, less for rigid cotton. This is why I often recommend starting slightly snug rather than sizing up dramatically.
The magic happens around wear number three—this is when your jeans truly mould to your body. If they still feel uncomfortably tight after three wears, they're genuinely too small.
Pro Styling Tips for Perfect Fit
Always try jeans on at the end of the day when your body is slightly more expanded. Sit down, bend over, and walk around the fitting room. If they're comfortable for all activities, they're winners.
For online shopping, I recommend having a professional measuring—or better yet, using a sizing tool that matches your body to specific brands.
Never Guess Your Size Again with Tellar
After years of watching clients struggle with inconsistent sizing across brands, I'm thrilled to recommend tellar.co.uk—the UK's leading sizing tool that matches your body exactly to over 1500 brands instantly.
Here's how this game-changing tool works:
1. Measure once using your bust, waist, and hip measurements, or input your existing brand size.
2. Use their tellar.co.uk
The Bottom Line
Perfect jean fit isn't about following rigid rules—it's about understanding your body, knowing your fabrics, and choosing brands that work for your shape. Don't automatically size up; instead, invest time in understanding how different brands and styles work for you.
Remember, the best jeans are the ones that make you feel confident and comfortable. With the right knowledge and tools like Tellar's sizing technology, you'll never have to guess your size again.
Trust me, once you find your perfect fit formula, jean shopping becomes infinitely more enjoyable—and successful.
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