Should You Size Up for Leather Trousers?

LEATHER & SIZING ADVICE

The honest answer: yes — for real leather, almost always. But for faux leather? It's more complicated, and getting it wrong is the difference between looking sleek and looking like a sausage casing. Let me explain.

I've had two leather trouser moments in my life. The first: a beautiful pair of genuine leather wide-leg trousers from Massimo Dutti that I bought in my usual size. They looked immaculate on the hanger and like a stuffed aubergine on me. I couldn't return them fast enough. The second: a pair of coated faux-leather trousers from Zara that I sized up one — and they became an absolute staple I still wear three years on. Lesson thoroughly learned.

Leather trousers are one of those pieces where the fabric completely changes the fit equation. Unlike soft jersey or woven cotton, leather — real or faux — doesn't breathe the same way, has very little natural give, and moulds to your shape once warm rather than stretching immediately on the body. So let's break down exactly what you should do.

Real Leather: Yes, Size Up

Genuine leather trousers — lamb, calf, or nappa — are typically cut with minimal ease because the expectation is the leather will soften and stretch gently with wear. But the key word there is gently. This is not a fabric that gives you an extra inch overnight. If they're snug across the hips or thighs at the point of purchase, they will remain snug — just a touch more comfortable after wearing in. They won't magically accommodate a size difference.

My advice with real leather:

Size up one from your usual trouser size, especially if you're curvier through the hip or thigh
If you're between sizes, always go up — the waist can be taken in cheaply by a tailor; the hip seam cannot be let out
Look for styles with a flat front rather than pleating — a flat front in real leather sits far more cleanly and doesn't bulk when sized correctly
Check whether the leather has a stretch panel or added elastane — some modern leather trousers include a small amount of stretch at the back waistband or inner thigh, which changes things significantly

Faux Leather & Coated Fabric: It Depends on the Style

This is where it gets more nuanced. Faux leather — PU, coated fabric, vegan leather — varies enormously. Some faux leather is basically a stiff, unforgiving plastic film. Other versions (think Cos's coated fabric trousers or Arket's bonded finishes) are actually quite supple and behave more like a tailored fabric with a sheen finish.

Stiff PU / high-shine faux leather — size up one, same logic as real leather
Soft coated fabric or bonded leather — size as normal, as the fabric will have more natural movement
Stretch faux leather (with elastane) — size as normal or even size down if they're very stretchy, as the waistband will pull in

How do you tell the difference before buying? Read the fabric composition. If it lists polyester or viscose as the main content with a PU coating, it'll behave softer. If it lists "100% polyurethane" with nothing else, it'll be stiffer. Most retailers include this — if they don't, it's a red flag.

"Leather trousers should feel like a second skin — not a second skin you've had to wrestle on. If you're holding your breath to button them, size up."

The Hip-to-Waist Ratio Problem

This is the real crux of it. Leather and coated fabrics are unforgiving at the hip and thigh in a way that woven fabrics simply aren't. If you have a more pronounced hip-to-waist ratio — and statistically most women do — sizing to your hips in leather trousers will leave you with a waistband that gapes. This is incredibly common and genuinely easy to fix: a tailor can take in the waistband for around £15–20. What they cannot do is add fabric to a hip seam that's already at capacity.

So the rule is consistent: size for your hips, not your waist, and deal with the waistband after if needed.

Trouser Cut Matters Too

The style of the trouser changes the sizing logic:

Straight leg or wide leg — size up one; the silhouette is more forgiving but leather still needs room to move
Skinny or cigarette leg — size up one or even two; there is nowhere for the fabric to go and a tight skinny leather trouser looks cheap rather than edgy
Flared — size to your hips; the flare at the hem gives the trouser natural movement so the upper needs to fit properly
Relaxed / wide-cut — size as normal; these are cut with significant ease built in by design

The Best Brands for Leather Trousers — Sized Right

HIGH STREET

Zara — Their faux leather straight-leg and wide-leg trousers are consistently excellent. Tend to run narrow at the hip; size up one as standard. Brilliant quality-to-price ratio.
Mango — Strong faux leather offering with good drape. Mediterranean cut so can run narrow; size up if you're curvier through the thigh.
Cos — Their coated and bonded fabric trousers are genuinely impressive. Tend to be cut with more ease than average so sizing is more reliable. Clean, minimal aesthetic.
Whistles — A brilliant mid-market option for real leather trousers. Their sizing is consistent and their fit notes online are detailed and honest. Worth every penny.
Topshop (via ASOS) — Good for trend-led faux leather styles. Very stretchy faux leather so size as normal; rigid styles, size up.
River Island — One of the best high street options for affordable faux leather. Great range of cuts and their reviews often include sizing notes from customers — read them.
Phase Eight — Underrated for leather-look tailored trousers. Cut with a more generous shape and their size guide is reliable. Excellent for workwear styling.

PREMIUM

Massimo Dutti — One of the best genuine leather trouser options at the premium high street level. Beautiful construction; size up one and get the waistband tailored if needed. A wardrobe investment.
Reiss — Clean, well-cut leather-look trousers with detailed size guides. Their coated trousers behave more like tailoring so sizing is reliable. Very polished.
Me&Em — Their leather and leather-look trousers are cut for real women with proper proportions. Generous through the hip; one of the more reliable fits at this price point.

LUXURY / DESIGNER

Max Mara — Exquisite lamb leather trousers. Always size up one; the leather is buttery and will soften beautifully with wear but the initial cut is fitted. Worth the investment for life.
Claudie Pierlot — A brilliant French brand for leather and leather-look trousers with a very Parisian cut — slim but not severe. Size up one; the fit is narrow through the thigh.

TWO INDEPENDENT BRANDS WORTH KNOWING

Deadwood — A Swedish sustainable leather brand making genuinely beautiful upcycled leather trousers. Each piece is unique, made from reclaimed hides. Their sizing notes are detailed and their customer service will advise on fit specifically. An extraordinary ethical find.
Samsøe Samsøe — A Danish brand with a cult following for leather-look trousers. Beautifully cut, Scandi-minimal, and their size guide is one of the best in the business — includes actual garment measurements, not just body size ranges.

A Quick Summary: The Rules to Remember

Real leather — size up one, always. No exceptions for skinny styles
Stiff PU faux leather — size up one
Soft coated / bonded fabric — size as normal
Stretch faux leather — size as normal or down
Always size for your hips, not your waist
Get the waistband tailored if needed — it's cheap and easy
Read customer reviews and filter by your size for the most relevant feedback

Stop Guessing — Use Tellar to Get It Right First Time

Leather trousers are not a "I'll just return them" purchase — the returns faff isn't worth it. This is exactly why Tellar.co.uk exists. It's a completely free UK sizing tool that matches your exact body measurements to over 1,500 brands instantly — so you can see your real size in any brand before you buy.

Measure once — enter your waist, hip and bust measurements, or use a brand size you already know
Use the Store Size Lookup tool to get your precise size in any brand — from Zara and Cos to Massimo Dutti and Reiss
Always free — works in-browser, no downloads, no faff

And while you're there, the Tellar Fashion Hub has everything you need for confident dressing — honest, unbiased style advice from real stylists. No sponsored content, no ads. Just great reads, including their Ultimate Clothing Sizing Guide and the Ultimate Guide to Jackets & Best Buys.

One measurement session. A lifetime of getting it right.