The Shirt Fabric Guide: What to Buy, Where to Buy It, and Why Material Matters More Than You Think

The difference between a shirt that elevates your look—and one that falls flat—often comes down to a single factor: fabric. It shapes the fit. Influences structure. Dictates breathability. And, ultimately, determines how long the shirt lasts. Whether you’re buying from Zara or Zegna, the weave, weight, and composition of your shirt fabric matters just as much as the cut.

At Tellar.co.uk, we’ve analysed thousands of shirts from over 1,500 brands, decoding how fabric behaves across labels. This guide dives deep into the most common shirt materials, which brands do them best (split by designer vs high street), and how to choose the right fabric for your body and wardrobe—all with fit confidence powered by Tellar’s real-time sizing engine.

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Why Shirt Fabric Changes Everything

For help with inconsistent sizes across brands, start with:

→ Understanding Brand Sizing Variations

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1. Cotton Poplin – Crisp, Cool, and Best for Structure

Technical Details:

• Fine plain weave with yarn counts of 80s–120s

• Lightweight (typically 100–130 GSM)

• Often used in formal and tailored cuts

Best for:

• Officewear, tuxedo shirts, clean silhouettes

✅ Designer Brands:

• Eton, Turnbull & Asser, Canali, Zegna, Boglioli

✅ High Street Brands:

• TM Lewin, Charles Tyrwhitt, Mango, Uniqlo Smart Shirts, John Lewis & Partners

Fit Tip:

Poplin has zero stretch. If you're between sizes or have a broad upper body, use Tellar’s profile tool to prevent strain at the chest or gaping buttons.

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2. Oxford Cloth – Rugged Texture, Smart-Casual Vibes

Technical Details:

• Basketweave (2×2 yarns), heavier than poplin

• Softens over time, resists pilling

• GSM range: 140–160

Best for:

• Layering, off-duty shirts, transitional weather

✅ Designer Brands:

• Drake’s, Brunello Cucinelli, Thom Browne Oxford Classics

✅ High Street Brands:

• GANT, Barbour, COS, Crew Clothing, M&S Autograph

Related:

→ Best Autumnal Clothes – Layering with Oxford Shirts

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3. Twill Cotton – Wrinkle-Resistant, Strong, and Draped

Technical Details:

• Diagonal weave, often with high-density warp

• Moderate natural give (even in 100% cotton)

• Typically 130–170 GSM

Best for:

• Dress shirts, cooler climates, business wear

✅ Designer Brands:

• Eton Twill Range, Brioni, Tom Ford, Ermenegildo Zegna

✅ High Street Brands:

• Reiss, Charles Tyrwhitt Twill, TM Lewin, M&S, Massimo Dutti

Insight:

Twill holds its shape better than poplin and travels well. Check fit consistency across brands:

→ High Fashion vs High Street Sizing

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4. Linen & Linen Blends – Breezy, Lightweight, and Naturally Anti-Bacterial

Technical Details:

• Flax-based fibre, loose weave, fast-drying

• Often blended with cotton or lyocell for reduced wrinkle

• Typically 100–140 GSM

Best for:

• Summer, resort wear, breathable tailoring

✅ Designer Brands:

• 100Hands, Canali, Brunello Cucinelli, Aspesi Linen Collection

✅ High Street Brands:

• Massimo Dutti, Zara Linen Range, Uniqlo U, Percival, & Other Stories

Further Reading:

→ Best Brands for Summer Shirts

→ Holiday Clothes: What to Pack and Why

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5. Brushed Cotton / Flannel – Cosy, Soft and Cold-Weather Ready

Technical Details:

• Brushed post-weaving to raise nap

• Often twill-based for extra warmth

• Typically 160–200 GSM

Best for:

• Winter shirts, layering, workwear aesthetics

✅ Designer Brands:

• Portuguese Flannel, Filson, RRL by Ralph Lauren

✅ High Street Brands:

• Levi’s, NN07, Carhartt WIP, Uniqlo, Wax London

Technical Fit Tip:

Brushed cotton shrinks unless pre-treated. Use Tellar’s fabric-aware sizing tool to get the post-wash fit right first time.

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6. Stretch Blends (Cotton-Elastane) – Form-Fitting and Flexible

Technical Details:

• Usually 2–5% elastane or spandex

• Ideal for slim or tailored cuts

• Increased shape recovery, wrinkle resistance

Best for:

• Shirts worn tucked in, smart-casual fits, narrow torsos

✅ Designer Brands:

• Hugo Boss, Paul Smith, Theory, Eton Stretch Performance

✅ High Street Brands:

• Zara Slim Fit, Next Stretch Shirts, Ted Baker, H&M Smartwear

Related:

→ Which Brands Run Small and Which Run Large?

→ The Zara Sizing Bible

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7. Modal, Rayon, and Viscose Blends – Silky, Drapey, and Statement-Friendly

Technical Details:

• Semi-synthetic fibres made from regenerated cellulose

• Extremely smooth and soft; drapes like silk

• Not ideal for high heat or frequent tumble drying

Best for:

• Printed statement shirts, relaxed eveningwear

✅ Designer Brands:

• AllSaints Atelier, Paul Smith Evening, Acne Studios, AMI Paris

✅ High Street Brands:

• COS, Arket, River Island, Bershka, ASOS Design

Tip:

Modal/rayon shirts often run long and boxy. Tellar.co.uk helps identify ideal proportions by height and body type.

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Brand Fit Comparison: Designer vs High Street

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Common Fit Mistakes (And How Tellar Fixes Them)

❌ Buying slim fits in non-stretch fabrics with broad shoulders

❌ Assuming a Medium is consistent between Zara, COS and Eton

❌ Choosing linen without checking shrinkage percentage

❌ Ignoring collar size in stretch or modal blends

❌ Overlooking GSM—some poplins are too thin for winter

✅ Use Tellar.co.uk to create a profile once and get shirt size recommendations that factor in:

• Fabric stretch

• Brand block patterns

• Your actual shoulder/chest/waist/arm ratio

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Call to Action: Get Your Best-Fitting Shirt—First Time

Don’t let the wrong fabric or brand sizing ruin a good shirt. With Tellar.co.uk, you can:

• Get exact size matches in over 1,500 brands

• Compare fits across Zara, COS, Reiss, Hugo Boss, Eton, Massimo Dutti and more

• Adjust recommendations based on fabric type, layering, and occasion

✅ Create your fit profile now – it’s free & easy

✅ Use our store-size lookup tool

✅ Avoid returns and size guesswork forever

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Connect with Tellar.co.uk

• Instagram: @Tellarsizing

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• Facebook: Tellar Sizing

• X (Twitter): @TellarSizing

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Find your size in 1,500+ brands real-time. It’s Free & Easy.

→ Start your profile now