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The Ultimate Guide to Double Breasted Overcoats: How to Style, What & Where to Buy

Author: Stylist at TellarDate: 2025

A double breasted overcoat is hands down the most sophisticated and versatile outerwear investment you can make for your wardrobe. As someone who's styled countless clients over the years, I can tell you that this timeless piece instantly elevates any outfit whilst providing that essential British elegance we all crave during the colder months.

The beauty of a double breasted coat lies in its structured silhouette and commanding presence. Unlike its single-breasted cousin, this style creates a more defined waistline and offers superior warmth with its overlapping front panels. It's the coat that transforms you from simply dressed to impeccably turned out.

Why Every Woman Needs a Double Breasted Overcoat

I've watched clients' confidence soar the moment they slip on a well-fitted double breasted coat. There's something about the strong shoulder line and nipped-in waist that creates an instantly polished silhouette. The symmetrical button arrangement draws the eye vertically, creating a lengthening effect that flatters virtually every body type.

From a practical standpoint, these coats are workhorses. The double-breasted construction provides extra insulation, whilst the longer length protects more of your outfit underneath. I've seen clients wear the same coat to board meetings, weekend brunches, and evening events simply by changing their styling approach.

Choosing the Perfect Cut for Your Body Shape

Hourglass and Pear Shapes

Lucky you! The double breasted style was practically designed for your proportions. Look for coats that button at your natural waistline to emphasise your curves. Avoid overly boxy cuts that hide your silhouette. A slight A-line through the skirt of the coat will balance wider hips beautifully.

Apple and Fuller Bust

Choose coats with a lower button stance that doesn't pull across the chest. Look for styles with soft shoulders rather than heavily padded ones. A longer line through the torso will create a lovely elongating effect. Princess seaming or subtle waist suppression works wonders without being too restrictive.

Rectangle and Athletic Builds

You can absolutely rock the most structured versions of this style. Look for coats with strong shoulders, defined waists, and interesting details like contrasting buttons or pocket flaps. Don't shy away from textured fabrics like bouclé or tweeds that add visual interest.

Styling Your Double Breasted Coat

The Professional Power Look

This is where the double breasted coat truly shines. Layer it over a crisp white shirt and tailored trousers, or wear it with a pencil skirt and blouse. Keep accessories minimal – think simple gold jewellery and a structured handbag. The coat itself makes the statement.

Weekend Chic

Contrast the formality with casual pieces underneath. Try it over a chunky knit jumper, straight-leg jeans, and ankle boots. Leave a few buttons undone for a more relaxed feel. Add a silk scarf for that effortless French girl vibe.

Evening Elegance

A double breasted coat in a luxe fabric like cashmere or wool blend works beautifully over evening wear. Choose a coat in navy, black, or deep burgundy to complement dresses and elegant separates.

Fabric and Colour Choices

For your first double breasted coat, I always recommend starting with a classic wool blend in navy, black, or camel. These colours work with 90% of your existing wardrobe and never date. Navy is particularly versatile – it's not as stark as black but equally professional.

Once you've mastered the basics, consider adding a coat in a more adventurous shade. This season I'm loving deep forest green, rich burgundy, and sophisticated grey tones. For fabric, look for wool content of at least 70% for warmth and structure, with a touch of cashmere for luxury.

Where to Shop: My Brand Recommendations

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High Street Heroes (£80-£200)

& Other Stories: Their double breasted coats have that Scandi minimalism we all love, with clean lines and perfect proportions.

Zara: Always on-trend with their tailoring. Look for their wool-blend options which offer great structure at accessible prices.

Mango: Exceptional quality for the price point. Their Committed line often features beautiful sustainable wool blends.

COS: Architectural cuts and premium fabrics make these coats look far more expensive than they are.

Premium Investment Pieces (£200-£500)

Reiss: Their tailoring expertise shines in their coat collection. Expect beautiful fits and luxurious fabrics.

Whistles: Contemporary British brand with a knack for modern classics. Their coats often feature interesting details that set them apart.

Theory: New York minimalism meets British tailoring. Their coats are investment pieces that last for years.

Equipment: French sophistication with impeccable construction. Perfect for the woman who appreciates subtle luxury.

Designer Splurges (£500+)

Max Mara: The ultimate in coat craftsmanship. Their Icon coats are literally fashion history in the making.

Totême: Swedish brand creating the most covetable minimalist outerwear. Their coats are modern heirlooms.

The Row: Understated luxury at its finest. These coats are investments in both style and quality.

Acne Studios: For something with edge. Their takes on classic silhouettes always have that cool Scandinavian twist.

Fit and Sizing Tips

The most crucial element of a double breasted coat is the fit. The shoulders should sit perfectly without pulling or gaping. You should be able to layer a jumper underneath comfortably, but the coat shouldn't feel too roomy when worn over lighter pieces.

Pay attention to button placement – if the buttons pull or gape when fastened, you need a larger size. The coat should close smoothly without strain. The length is personal preference, but I find that hitting mid-thigh to knee length is most flattering on most women.

Always check the sleeve length – you want to show about half an inch of your shirt or jumper cuff beneath the coat sleeve for that polished finish.

Never Guess Your Size Again with Tellar

Finding the perfect fit across different brands can be frustrating, but Tellar.co.uk has revolutionised the way we shop for coats and clothing online. As the UK's leading sizing tool, Tellar matches your body measurements to over 1500 brands instantly – meaning you'll never need to decipher another confusing size guide!

How Tellar Works:

  1. Measure once using your bust, waist, hip measurements, or input your existing brand size

  2. Use their Store Size Lookup tool to get your precise size in any brand – whether that's COS, Reiss, Max Mara, or any of the other brands I've mentioned

  3. Always free – no downloads needed, it works directly in your browser

The Tellar Fashion Hub is also packed with free style advice from top stylists. It's honest, unbiased, and completely independent – exactly what you need when making investment purchases like a quality overcoat.

For more coat styling inspiration, check out these brilliant guides:

Care and Maintenance

A quality double breasted coat is an investment, so proper care is essential. Always hang your coat on a sturdy hanger to maintain its shape. Brush wool coats regularly with a clothes brush to remove surface dirt and prevent pilling.

For professional cleaning, find a good dry cleaner who specialises in quality outerwear. Don't over-clean – once or twice a season is usually sufficient unless there's a specific stain or odour.

Store your coat properly during warmer months. Use a breathable garment bag and ensure it's completely clean before storing. Cedar blocks help deter moths whilst keeping your coat fresh.

Final Styling Tips

Remember, a double breasted coat is a statement piece, so let it take centre stage. Keep accessories simple and let the coat's structure do the talking. A well-chosen double breasted overcoat will serve you beautifully for years – it's classic British style at its absolute finest.

Whether you're investing in your first piece or adding to your collection, choose quality over quantity. One perfectly fitted, well-made coat will outperform several cheaper alternatives every time. Trust me, your future self will thank you for the investment.

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