What Is Sizing Like at John Smedley?

So, what's the fit actually like?

John Smedley runs slim. Properly slim. This is heritage British knitwear made the old-fashioned way at Lea Mills in Derbyshire — the oldest working factory of its kind anywhere in the world — and the house cut has barely shifted in decades. That means a trim, body-skimming line, higher armholes, and a body length that runs a touch longer than most of what you'll find on the high street.

The fine gauge is the other thing to get your head around. Smedley's classic 30-gauge and 24-gauge knits are feather-light and beautifully smooth, but pure merino and Sea Island cotton have very little give in them. There's no sneaky bit of elastane in there doing the work for you. The size you choose is the size you get — it won't magically stretch to forgive a snug chest.

A few things worth knowing before you commit:

• It's cut close through the chest and waist. If you're broad, muscular, or you simply prefer a relaxed drape, size up one.

• The body runs long. Brilliant tucked in; occasionally a fraction long left out — worth a thought if you're short in the torso.

• Sleeves are lean and often on the longer side. Flattering under a jacket, but shove them up and they'll stay put.

• Minimal stretch. Caught between two sizes? Go up. You cannot talk merino into extra room, believe me — I've tried.

• Cotton and wool behave differently. The Sea Island cotton feels slightly more structured; the merino has a softer, closer cling that relaxes a little with wear.

My rule of thumb: if you like a modern, tailored fit and you know your measurements, take your usual size and enjoy it. If you're in any doubt at all — or you're the layering-up-in-winter type — go up one and thank me later. The one genuine styling mistake I see men make with Smedley is buying it a size too small because it "still fits," then living in something that pulls across the shoulders. A knit this good should never look like it's fighting you.

How I'd actually style it

The beauty of Smedley is that it quietly does the heavy lifting, so you don't need to overthink the rest. A few combinations I come back to again and again:

• A knitted polo under an unstructured blazer — the smartest smart-casual there is, and it works for a dinner or a Monday meeting alike.

• A fine roll neck under a topcoat in winter. Quietly, it's one of the most elegant things a man can wear, and it hides a multitude of Christmas sins.

• A crew neck layered over a collared shirt with the collar left out — a bit of texture, a bit of colour, zero effort.

• Keep the trousers clean and considered underneath: pleated wool, or a dark, well-kept denim. Let the knit be the quiet hero.

The brands I'd put next to it

If you love what Smedley does but want to build a wardrobe around it, here's where I'd shop across every budget.

On the high street

• COS — clean, minimalist merino with a slightly more relaxed cut than Smedley, so a lovely contrast piece when you want a bit more room.

• Uniqlo — the Extra Fine Merino range is astonishing value. It won't last decades the way Smedley will, but it's the perfect way to experiment with colour without the commitment.

• Reiss — a step up in polish, strong on slightly heavier-gauge knits and a sharper, more tailored smart-casual look.

Independents & boutique names

• Sunspel — British, understated, and superb at lightweight knits and tees. The fit is clean and modern, and it sits beautifully alongside Smedley.

• Colhay's — if you want to level up into proper luxury lambswool and cashmere at a fairer price than the designer houses, this is the name to know. Genuinely covetable knitwear.

• Community Clothing — honest, Blackburn-made basics with transparent pricing. Brilliant for the workhorse pieces you'll wear to death.

Designer & luxury

• Margaret Howell — the connoisseur's British choice. Intelligent, relaxed cuts and gorgeous cloth; the antidote to anything flashy.

• Loro Piana — the cashmere gold standard. Investment pieces you'll keep for a lifetime and hand down.

• Zegna — Italian precision with a slightly softer shoulder and a more generous cut, ideal if Smedley ever feels a shade too lean for you.

The honest problem — and how I get around it

Here's the catch with everything I've just recommended: every one of those brands cuts differently. A medium at Smedley is not a medium at COS, and it's nowhere near a medium at Zegna. Sizing charts don't tell you that, and it's the single biggest reason men end up with a wardrobe of not-quite-right knitwear and a stack of returns.

Which is exactly why I use Tellar. It's a free UK sizing tool that matches your body to more than 1,500 brands instantly. You measure yourself once — chest, waist, hip, or simply your existing size in a brand you already own and love — and the Store Size Lookup does the rest. No more squinting at a size guide, no more guessing whether to size up.

• Measure once — chest, waist, hip, or an existing brand size you know fits. Not sure how? Here's the quick how-to-measure guide for men.

• Use the Store Size Lookup to get your exact size in John Smedley, COS, Reiss, Arket and hundreds more.

• Shop with confidence — fewer returns, better-fitting buys, less faff.

• Always free, works in-browser, nothing to download.

Beyond the tool, the Tellar Fashion Hub is a growing library of free, honest style advice from working stylists — no sponsorship, no paid placements, no nonsense. If you want to go deeper on the smart-casual thing, start with our guide to the secret to smart-casual comfort, our rundown of the best men's jeans brands to pair with your knitwear, and our primer on how to do casual style well.

Never look at a size guide again

Tellar is the UK's leading sizing tool — your body matched to 1,500+ brands instantly. Honest, unbiased, independent and always free.

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